The Madre and the Nuevo: The Impact of Chef Johnny Curiel and the Reinvention of Mexican Cuisine in Denver

by John Broening

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You might as well start with the corn tortilla, which is as central to Mexican cuisine as bread is to French cuisine.

If you run a restaurant kitchen, there are a number of different ways you can handle a corn tortilla. You can buy tortillas from a broadline distributor, where they have most likely been frozen and stuffed with preservatives like potassi…